
If you're a shoehead, you own at least one shoe designed by this man — I guarantee it. Eric Avar is already a footwear design legend and yet, in talking to him, I got the sense that he's just getting warmed up. A scary thought indeed for Nike's competition, but an inspiration for shoe aficionados and aspiring designers the world over.
Prof. K: I know this is pretty broad, but I figured I'd start with it: is there anything you've ever wanted to communicate to the shoeheads around the world?
Avar: That sounds too deep for me. [Laughs] We're just trying to do good stuff. Honestly, that's really all that it comes down to.
It kind of blows my mind at times that there is such a rich shoe culture out there.

Prof. K: Do you ever come to work and think "Holy crap — this is crazy...this whole place [the Nike World Headquarters] came about from shoes!"?
Avar: You know, I never really think that big picture. I mean, the campus is a trip...it's pretty amazing and big and what not, and it is, to your point, kind of amazing that this started with a shoe...Bill Bowerman fooling around with track shoes.
But we just come in and each day you just try to do your own thing...you try to make the best shoes and do good stuff. Everything else and the scope of things...it blows me away if I think about it, but I rarely think about it. You just try to do what you have to do.



The Innovation Kitchen: If Nike were a living being, these would be the doors to its soul. Go through them and you enter a portal in time, where people like Eric Avar and Tinker Hatfield live five to six years ahead of the rest of us, developing the technologies and products that will keep us shoeheads hooked well into the future. And, as one might expect, what goes on beyond these doors is a closely held secret. The red signs read "NOBODY GETS IN TO SEE THE COOKS, NOT NOBODY — NOT NOHOW" and "POSITIVELY NO TOURS." The first sign is a humorous play on a line spoken by the Guardian of the Emerald City Gates in The Wizard of Oz, but it's no joke — Nike is very serious about keeping the Kitchen on lockdown. Eric Avar was gracious enough to allow me in, but I can't seem to remember anything that happened in the hour following our conversation and I've since noticed a mysterious scar behind my right ear...

Prof. K: This is something I've been asking everyone: do you have a favorite Kicksology.net review?
Avar: You know, I'd probably have to say — although it was one of the most negative reviews — the Hyperflight...

Prof. K: Jeff Johnson [Product Creation Director for Nike Basketball] picked that one too...
Avar: Did he?
Well, we knew we were doing a controversial kind of shoe and that it could be kind of niche. You know, sometimes we get kind of wrapped up internally in what we think things are, how we perceive things...sometimes we make things bigger than they are and sometimes we don't give things enough credit for what they are. So it was interesting because I just always felt like your reviews were, for the most part, entirely right on.
They were objective and to the point...I always enjoyed that and the site was just kind of a good barometer or gut check. You know, there's always a little bit of subjectivity...we don't always agree with what you say, but, for the most part, it's a pretty objective point of view on product.
So, even though your review of the Hyperflight wasn't the most positive review, it was a controversial shoe and — as opposed to just being a review that was right in the middle, like "eh, it was good...3 1/2, maybe 4 stars" — it was on one end of the spectrum.
It's the reviews that are either on one end of the spectrum or the other that are always the most interesting...that evoke that love/hate relationship.
I think it's that way with Jordan. Early on and to this day, Tinker has such a point of view where he'll be one or two steps ahead of where people's minds or expectations are. I think Tinker is always one step ahead of his time and it reflected in the product...sometimes it just took people a little time to catch up with him. But once they did, it's undeniable...it's just an awesome shoe, but it promotes this kind of love/hate relationship and we've seen that with a number of products.
So, as that reflects back to the reviews, it's even that much more interesting. [Since Jeff Johnson already picked the Nike Air Hyperflight as his favorite review, Eric Avar has picked my Nike Air Zoom Huarache 2K4 review as his alternate favorite — see below for the full review]

Prof. K: Those are the ones that are most fun for me to write too, I hate the middle-of-the-road shoes...
Avar: It's good that you did something...obviously we didn't set out to make it a sucky shoe [Prof. busts out laughing]...we don't think it was a sucky shoe, it was a niche shoe.
We knew that from the beginning, you know, it's an 11-ounce, minus 11-ounce basketball shoe that's completely sleek and totally minimal. Only a few points guards could wear it and...I don't know if you know any of the history behind that shoe?



Cookin': Here's Avar at work in the Kitchen. Around his workspace you can see a few of the much loved shoes he's designed, including the Air Zoom Huarache 2K4, Air Zoom Flight 2K3, the original Air Flight Huarache, Air Hyperflight, Shox BB4, Air Flightposite and on and on and on. It's amazing how many hugely popular and influential shoes Avar has penned in his 14 years at the Swoosh.

Prof. K: A little bit, but I'd love to hear it from you...
Avar: That was when Bill Bowerman [the legendary "teacher" of the University of Oregon track team and Co-Founder of Nike] had just passed away and I was actually working out in the gym [on campus] and I had wandered up to the top floor and they were setting up in the gym for Bill Bowerman's tribute the next day.
They had put together about a five minute video about Bill Bowerman and his life...it was very artfully, poetically put together...with music. So they were going through rehearsals for the next day...that video started and my first inclination was to run away so I could wait 'till the next day to see it. But it was voiced over by Phil Knight and there was music and it just immediately sucked me right in.
So I stood up there all by myself as they were going through rehearsal just kind of playing it and I watched the video and it was a very profound moment for me in my career at Nike...to just really kind of relive the spirit of Bill and what this company was really founded on.
And you see it through people like Tinker and a lot of other people here, but it was very profound and I just said to myself right there: "Okay, if Bill Bowerman were here, how would he design a basketball shoe?" It would be minimal, it would be light weight, it would be controversial...you know, and all those things. And that's what the Nike team set out to do.
The Hyperflight was not for everyone [Laughs], so that's why that's one of my favorite reviews.

Prof. K: But I think that's what makes Nike Nike — that both you and Jeff liked a negative review most...
Avar: We do thrive on competition.
I think it's just kind of inherent in Nike culture. We're just not happy with just trying to maintain the status quo...we want to make it better.
When it first came out, people were coming up to me and asking "Man, did you read Professor K's review?"
I'm like "No, how was it?" And the response was "Oh, man..."
I thought, it couldn't be that bad then I read it and, oh man, it was that bad! [Laughter]

Prof. K: Hey, I gave you guys love for trying...
Avar: No, you gave us credit for exactly what we were trying to do, but something like that always serves as motivation. You know, it's like when someone beats you at something...you just think "How can I make myself better?" And that's what Nike's all about...just trying to do good stuff and make it better all the time.



The Motivator: Shown here is Eric Avar's final sketch for the Nike Air Hyperflight. My assessment of the shoe could be summed up in this one sentence from my original review: "For being willing to develop such a risky, envelope-pushing shoe I have to applaud the company, but with risk comes the potential for failure and the Hyperflight is, in my opinion, a complete failure on the performance front." That both Avar and Jeff Johnson, Product Creation Director for Nike Hoops, would pick an almost entirely negative review as their favorite is, to me, a testament to the company's passion to excel and always be better than it was the day before.

Prof. K: If it's alright, I'd like to touch back on Bill Bowerman passing away...it seems like, pretty soon, there's going to be a generational shift at Nike in terms of some of the people who started things here like Tinker and even Phil Knight. At some point they're going to move on and it seems like you guys...your "class" is going to have to move into their leadership positions. Do you ever think about that?
Avar: It's kind of like the scope of Nike that I mentioned a minute ago...I think other designers in my positions...well, I shouldn't really speak for them, but it's my gut feeling that we don't think of it that way.
You know, Tinker's Tinker...I just can't imagine Tinker not being here. But, if there is a lot that — in the meantime — I can learn from him...there isn't a day that goes by that I don't learn something from him or try to make a point of learning something from him.
And it's not an effort of, like, "Oh, when he's gone..." There's just maybe a sense of responsibility to help keep that spirit alive. I think it's more about keeping that spirit alive. You can't ever replace anyone like Tinker, but you can learn from them and you can keep that spirit.

Prof. K: Something I heard Tinker talk about in another interview was that he's really changed his mindset in recent years from being really competitive — trying to design better shoes than anybody else — to being a teacher...that that's how he now finds fulfillment. Do you see yourself transitioning into that type of role as well?
Avar: Well...I might not be at the teacher, mentoring role that Tinker is, but I'm learning from that more all the time and I'm learning that every day from Tinker.
Probably more the role that I am playing is much more of a collaborative role within different project like the FREE project...really trying to branch out and work with different people, whether they be designers, engineers. The FREE project was very much in collaboration with Nike Sports Research Lab and people like Jeff Pisciotta [Senior Researcher, Nike Sports Research Lab], Tobie Hatfield [Senior Advanced Project Engineer, Nike Innovation Kitchen] and Kevin Hoffer [Senior Designer, Nike Innovation Kitchen].
It's not new...I mean, in design you always try to be collaborative and we talk about teamwork a lot...the basketball design team talks a lot about teamwork, it's always there. It's just even that much clearer or that much more of a sense of priority for me that this collaboration and team approach is just so, so critical to really do good stuff.


Set Your Feet FREE: Shown here is Avar's final sketch for the recently released Nike FREE 5.0 runner. Avar worked very closely with Nike's Sport Research Lab on the FREE, which was designed from the ground-up to mimic the mechanics of running barefoot on grass. Intrigued by the idea of a shoe designed to work as though it wasn't there, I picked up a pair when the FREE 5.0 (along with its companion, the FREE Trainer 5.0) was released a couple of months back. I've logged about 75 miles of running in them so far — with most of those miles on asphalt — and I am absolutely, positively hooked. For folks who haven't run barefoot since childhood (like me), running in the FREE is a revelation. It made me realize just how much I've been missing in my years of running in overbuilt, overly isolated shoes. For more on Nike's FREE concept see www.nike.com/nikefree.

Prof. K: One thing that's always amazed me about Nike is that it's retained this small company culture of always pushing the envelope...usually when a company gets so big it gets slow and stops trying to innovate, but that hasn't happened at Nike. And I've felt that a lot of the reason for that has been people like you and Tinker who've really pushed the boundaries and forced the company to keep pushing boundaries. Do you worry about that at all...that, as the company continues to get bigger and financial pressure gets ever greater...
Avar: I apologize again...that's why I was half-an-hour late...I was fighting that exact battle. It's getting more difficult all the time and I believe that everyone — from top management all the way down — is committed to keeping that spirit alive. I believe people believe in it.
It just, realistically, gets more difficult...through size and Wall Street expectations and all of those types of things. It just becomes more difficult to maintain that smaller company kind of feel and that sense of risk. As you get much bigger that sense of risk...take the Hyperflight for instance, I still think we're a better company for doing that shoe than not doing that shoe. That's just one example...the FREE product, that's a risk, that's a huge risk, you know...
It does maybe become a little more difficult to think small. When you are smaller you have a greater sense of risk taking. But that goes back to that spirit...as long as you can try to keep that spirit alive and infuse that in people...hopefully, no matter how big you get, it may get a little more difficult, but you still have that.
I think that is one of the things that makes Nike...we manage to keep that alive.

Prof. K: How long have you been at Nike?
Avar: It'll 14 years in December.

Prof. K: Has your whole career in footwear been at Nike?
Avar: Well, I worked six months right out of school for adidas actually.
I did an independent study in my junior year — I went to school back East — and I graduated and they asked me if I wanted a job so I went for it...I was there about six months.
I always wanted to be at Nike though. It was more like "Oh man, I got a job right out of school!" I think it probably actually helped, even though I just had six months, you know, it was like "Hey, he's got a little experience, but he's still a little green..."
I mean, I was green as green could be... [Laughter]



Glove Me Tender: Shown here is Eric Avar's final sketch for the Nike Air Zoom GP II, complete with its namesake's signature. The GP II, with its clean look and unique material treatments, was a highly popular shoe and introduced many to Nike's "monkey paw" anti-ankle inversion structure.

Prof. K: Was it very different back then?
Avar: Yes and no.
Like I said, the company has definitely gotten bigger and more complicated, but that spirit is still alive and you still see it and find it in people every day.
Maybe you have to look for it a little more than you had to, but, you know, as an employee who was fortunate enough to grow up with a little bit of that, it's kind of also our responsibility to try to pass that along and keep that alive in our own way.
And I think working down in the [Innovation] Kitchen...which I can't believe reformed four years ago...it feels like when I first started at Nike...the same group.
You know, it's got the same amount of designers, so it is definitely kind of a throwback, which is good. Just the chance to work with some of the people down there...it's a great situation.

Prof. K: Switching gears a little bit, something I wanted to talk about was the power of design. There seem to be some clear examples of enlightened companies using design as a means to succeed in their line of business, be it you guys or Volkswagen or Apple or what have you, but they're the exception rather than the rule. Do you have any thoughts on why more business people don't view design as a strategic tool for business?
Avar: We kind of joke or say that, at the end of the day, product is king.
I don't care what the product is or what the industry is, if you do good product that serves a purpose, a function...one of the words I use or talk about or I certainly think about a lot in the design process is balance. That balance between art and science.
It's when you create that balance and that right mix — when something is beautiful and it serves a purpose and it functions...solves a problem — no matter what it is, I think people will be attracted to it. I think Apple is an excellent example that you cited.
So, at the end of the day, if you're strategic and do good stuff, that speaks louder than anything else.

Prof. K: Do you find that you have to find other ways to justify that to non-designers — business people basically — who are more worried about the financial aspects of products?
Avar: That's funny because we really do say product is king...at the end of the day, you do good product and you put it out on the table and it works and it sells...everyone's happy.
Something that I've always tried to do is to keep my head down...you take in as much information as you can...you always learn. The day you stop learning you're in trouble, so there's always this quest to learn more. But I'm just going to try to do good product and put that on the table and hopefully...

Prof. K: So you shouldn't have to explain it...
Avar: Well, some products require a little more romancing or selling, if you will, but that's the great thing about Nike...there's a little bit of that, but at the heart of it, the spirit's still here. There's still that sense of risk and still trying to do the right thing, and that's why I personally couldn't imagine being anywhere else. And not just in footwear, but in all of our products.



Pennies from Heaven: Here's a look at Avar's final sketch for the much loved Air Penny IV, complete with a note from Penny himself. The unique strap design first implemented on the Air Penny IV has influenced many shoes that have come after, including the soon-to-be-released Zoom LeBron II.

Prof. K: Where do you think that comes from...the guys who started the company...Phil Knight, Bill Bowerman?
Avar: I think so.
Phil and Bill Bowerman and that irreverent, risk taking...you know, Prefontaine...and it's just embedded in people like Tinker and Mark. I mean, it's amazing to have someone like Mark Parker [President, Nike Brand] who is such a design geek in such a leadership role. He's a brilliant strategist, but he has this love and this understanding of product design and it just doesn't get much better than that.

Prof. K: Do you have any advice for young people who want to get into the industry?
Avar: It's like anything in life...practice!
Practice and always try to learn more. Like I mentioned earlier, the day you start thinking that you know everything, you're in trouble. A constant quest for knowledge is really important...just to have the mindset of really going through the strategic design process of identifying a problem, solving a problem...I think that's what will really help designers. And, in the meantime, practice, practice, practice! Drawing, rendering, this and that — that's all part of it.
It's back to that balance — you want to be able to make stuff look beautiful, but that balance is really important...that science side and that problem solving side is really important.

Prof. K: It seems like being able to collaborate is also important...
Avar: Yes, I think teamwork and collaboration are both extremely important and the [Nike] basketball team is an excellent example of that collaboration. All of the products we have talked about would never have happened without all of the expertise and passion of design, development and marketing. People like Coop, Kenzo, Kris [Kris Aman, Product Marketing Director, Nike Basketball] and JJ are just a few people who help make magic happen and I am honored and privileged to have worked with them and have been a part of their team.

Prof. K: You've talked a lot about balance. One thing that's always been interesting about Nike product to me is that, more often than not, it does strike that balance between being really compelling visually and functionally. To me that's one of the most interesting things about Nike because, oftentimes, companies will go overboard in one area or the other. How do you guys achieve that balance? As a designer, how do you ensure that that's always there?
Avar: That's a good question...it's a difficult question to answer.
I think a lot of it may just be kind of ingrained or kind of learned or taught from people like Tinker. Some of it may just be intuition...I think good design or good designers are intuitive by nature. And then, personally, for me to strike that balance, I can have a lot of fanciful ideas or thoughts about how something can look, but I always try to start it from the science or problem solving side. If you really hold true to that, more often than not, the shoe, the product, whatever you may be working on, will start to design itself.
It's kind of the old adage: form follows function — there's a lot of truth to that. And then, at the end of it, it's just like, "Okay, let's make this as beautiful as we can...let's strike that balance."
Sometimes I think when you approach it from "Oh man, let's make this beautiful" and then "Okay, what is this going to do and how are we going to make it work?"...it's a little more difficult. Not to say that you can't do that, but it's sometimes a little more forced that way.


The Spark: If I had to credit (or blame, depending on my mood) one shoe for giving me the impetus to start Kicksology.net, it would be the Nike Air Flightposite, which is shown here in the form of Eric Avar's final sketch. To this day I occasionally pull the shoe out of cold storage to ogle it and soak in its devastatingly beautiful and utterly elegant design.

Prof. K: Do you find yourself spending a lot of time taking away? Because one of the things that I've always loved about your designs is that they're so simple...the Flightposite being a great example. I think it's my favorite ever in terms of the design of the shoe, because it's so organic and so simple, where it could have been so complex because it's such a technical shoe. Is that something that comes naturally to you or do you have to spend a lot of time taking away from your initial designs?
Avar: It probably comes naturally. I mean, the Flightposite for instance, it was just kind of this vision. A number of us had this thought of "If you dipped your foot into this liquid and it sucked around your foot, what would it look like?" That was the vision and, on the performance side, it was just to try to do away with layers and extra junk. So it just kind of took on the anatomical, simple form that it did.
But there are definitely projects where you'll start heading down the road and add a little of this and a little of that and you'll get caught up in the "You gotta have perceived value..." thing and this and that, and you just have to say to yourself: "Wait a minute, I'm kind of gunking it up."
There's a place that, you know, more stuff is good. But, personally, I've always gravitated towards simpler...less is more.

Prof. K: Alright, I know you need to get back to designing, but do you have any parting words of wisdom for me?
Avar: What are you going to do next?

Prof. K: Oh...well, I'll be writing for the magazine [Sole Collector].
Avar: So you're still going to be doing reviews for the magazine...

Prof. K: Yes, but it'll be a little less frequent so, hopefully, I'll be able to actually have a life...my wife has been very patient with me.
Avar: Well, I don't know if I'd dare give you any advice, but what I would venture to say is just "thank you."
From me personally, but I probably speak for a lot of other designers, engineers, everyone else involved in the process. Maybe on the other end of the spectrum, the 2K4 review was, for all intents and purposes, very, very positive...it was spot on and we feel like it's one of the better basketball products we've done in a long time.
You know, so it was a three or four page review and the thoroughness — just kind of the validation that you've brought to footwear design — you've brought it more into a product design realm.
I mean, you read that and it's, in a lot of ways, a better written review or article than you would read in Road & Track about a $60,000 BMW or something and, for me personally, it's just kind of like "Hey, we are trying to do good stuff, we are trying to do stuff that makes a difference!"
We're not going to change the world or anything like that, but the site brought a sense of validation and purpose and...I don't know, I appreciate it so, if anything, what I would say to you is thank you and I hope you continue to stay involved.



A Sign of Genius: Here's Avar holding a sign that hangs in his workspace. While I'm not one to quibble with Einstein, I think where it gets really scary is when a person possesses both imagination and knowledge, as is the case with Avar and his cohorts in the Kitchen.

Prof. K: Ah, man...I don't know what to say Eric. Coming from a true living legend like you...that just blows my mind, but I have to say that it all comes from you guys. I wouldn't have spent all those hours and all those sleepless nights writing reviews and taking pictures if people like you and others in the industry hadn't put your hearts and souls into developing so many inspirational products.
And don't sell yourself short — you guys have changed the world! And I know that your work, and the work of people like Tinker and Aaron Cooper and Wilson Smith, et al, has inspired many young people who might not have had much direction in their lives to work towards the goal of breaking into the footwear industry. You might not know it, but your work has touched a lot of people in a really positive way and that's just awesome.
Alright then, I could go on with the accolades for hours, but enough from me. Here's Eric Avar's favorite Kicksology.net review...
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